Classic Dolma in Grape Leaves (Stovetop)

Cooking method

1. Step 1:

   

   How do you make dolma? Get all your ingredients ready. Use ground meat from whatever you like — if you buy it pre-ground, choose good quality with no additives, though grinding it yourself is better. I'm using beef, pork, and chicken. Short-grain rice works best: it has more starch, so it soaks up moisture and flavor and helps bind the filling. Matsoni (a cultured yogurt drink) can be replaced with sour cream.

2. Step 2:

   

   Choose younger, lighter-colored leaves. If they're fresh, snip off the stems and rinse them well under running water. Pour boiling water over the leaves, let them sit about 5 minutes, then drain. If the leaves are brined, unroll them, separate them one by one, cover with boiling water, and let them sit 20 minutes.

3. Step 3:

   

   Put the ground meat and raw rice in a deep mixing bowl. Peel and rinse the onion and 2 garlic cloves. Set aside a little garlic and some herbs for later (step 10). Strip the tough stems and wilted leaves from the herbs, then rinse and dry them. Chop the onion, garlic, and herbs with a knife. Add the onion, garlic, herbs, salt, and spices to the meat.

4. Step 4:

   

   Knead the filling thoroughly until smooth — easiest to do with your hands.

5. Step 5:

   

   For braising the dolma, use a pot of about 5 quarts. Line the bottom with grape leaves so the dolma doesn't scorch.

6. Step 6:

   

   Now start rolling. Shape a small amount of filling into an oblong log and set it on the ribbed side at the base of a leaf. The size depends on the leaf; mine came out a bit smaller than a walnut.

7. Step 7:

   

   Wrap the filling in the leaf, folding in the sides. Don't roll too tightly, or the leaves may split as the rice swells with water. Keep the smooth side of the leaf facing out. It'll seem tricky and slow at first, but after 2 or 3 you'll get the hang of it and roll them easily.

8. Step 8:

   

   Arrange the dolma in the pot, packed tightly in a circle, seam side down.

9. Step 9:

   

   Pour boiling water over the dolma until they're fully submerged. Set a weight on top — a heavy plate works — so they don't float up and unroll. If you used fresh leaves, salt the water lightly. Simmer the dolma over low heat for 1 hour after it comes to a boil. That time is approximate — go by your own stove.

10. Step 10:

    

    Make the sauce. Pour the matsoni into a linen or cotton bag and let it strain, hung for about an hour to drain off the liquid. Then stir the strained matsoni together with the reserved chopped garlic and herbs.