In the handwritten records — already with beets. Vegetables (beets among them) were stewed in beet kvass in the oven, then salted, peppered, and served. Back then people ate few animal products, so they finished this hearty homemade brew with salt-and-dill-mashed lard. And it's still finished that way today in northern and central Ukraine.
The main one is red. It's made of beets, carrots, potatoes, cabbage, and tomatoes or tomato paste. For a bright, beautiful color, the beets are fried in oil with pepper and bay leaf. Tomatoes add a shade too — they're sauteed with onion and carrot (this is called the fry-up). These days it's held that a meat-and-bone stock makes the best borscht. It's made from beef, pork, or rooster. Lean versions are rounded out with mushrooms. Some regions make this homemade soup without beets; a tomato-and-carrot fry-up provides the reddish palette, and the dish comes out red-orange and very tasty too. Served with sour cream, garlic rolls, and a bunch of green onions (to nibble alongside).
Green borscht is made from sorrel and garden greens. On serving, a boiled egg (a half or in cubes) and a dollop of sour cream go into the bowl.
Cold recipes are for summer. A beet broth is rounded out with kefir, pieces of that dark raspberry-red root vegetable, dill, and seasonings. It's eaten alongside potatoes boiled "in their jackets."
Lithuanian, Polish, Belarusian, and Russian raspberry-red first courses share a similar makeup and techniques, but with minor differences.
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